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Tasman Crossing: Our Last Full Night at Sea?

This post was originally shared exclusively and directly with our subscribers during our passage across the Tasman.

We sailors are a superstitious lot.

You may have noticed that I never say “after we make landfall…,” or, “when we arrive to Australia…” That’s because the completion of a voyage is never guaranteed, and I choose not to tempt fate. The ocean gives us so much, but can also take it all away. We are so very small and the sea is vast and powerful. We are but guests here. Until the anchor is down and set, I live in the realm of the unknown, with a constant mild undercurrent of fear and anxiety.

But, hopefully, tonight will be our last full night at sea on this voyage.

We are now less than 100nm from the northern tip of Breaksea Spit beyond the top of Fraser Island, which is where we will turn and bear southwest toward the entrance to Port Bundaberg.

This means we are well into what I think of as the “marathon at the end of the marathon” — the last 200nm of a passage. Similar to this stretch of mileage at the start, we are exposed to all the hazards of near-shore sailing: increased shipping traffic, a higher likelihood of poorly-lit or questionably-managed non-professional vessels, and land-altered winds and seas. Last night alone I had more than ten AIS alarms sound for nearby traffic; typically, I might see one every 48 hours or more. This close to land, I must keep a more persistent look-out, so I set alarms to limit my sleep to naps of 30 minutes or less.

I’m a big believer in the philosophy that there is no one right way to do this kind of sailing. However, most of the single-handed sailors that I know share a similar strategy: we aim to transit the first and last 200nm of a passage as quickly as possible, because we know that we cannot subject our bodies to such deprivation for long. Were this to drag on for more than 48 hours, the perspicacity of our decisions would suffer, and in turn, so would our safety.

When I left on my first solo ocean passage, one of my singlehander mentors asked me, “what is the most important system on the ship?” I thought he meant the autopilot, but he quickly corrected me. “It’s you.”

Above all else, without the benefit of a crew to share watches, make hot drinks, ensure you are well fed and hydrated, you must do it all for yourself. And you simply can’t care for yourself as well during this stretch of time. Even with just one other crew member, a skipper could make the decision to slow down and transit these waters more comfortably, sailing a longer course to avoid unpleasant conditions or angles of sail.

I need my sleep, so for me the safest choice is clear — keep the boat moving as fast as possible so we can put the anchor down and rest as soon as possible.

Aside from decreased sleep, the sailing also tends to be trickier and more demanding close to shore. Since mid-morning today, we’ve been fighting our way through headwinds and uncomfortable seas. Even now, they persist, but in the middle of the night, the wind will abruptly shift with the arrival of a southerly front. This will make for even sloppier seas since it’s such a big change in weather direction, and the front also brings higher winds and strong and sudden gusts. I’ll need to quickly reef, then unreef, furl, then unfurl, trim the sails and then ease the lines. While it will be a more comfortable wind angle than today’s sail, it will be nonstop.

If all goes to plan, then we should be making the turn at the tip of the spit in the late afternoon, perfectly aligned with the more favorable tidal current, and with the advantage of daylight. Then, we’ll sail another eight hours or so, arriving to Bundaberg between midnight and eight in the morning on Sunday. I normally don’t like to enter an unfamiliar port in the dark, but I spoke with another sailing couple who made the passage a few months ago, and they said the entrance channel is very clearly lit and simple to navigate (the charts certainly show it to be so).

So, while I’m too superstitious to say anything about our landfall with certainty, I am very hopeful that tonight will be our last full night at sea. Come on, Australia!
By the way, don’t forget to check out our other tracker for shorter and more timely text-message-type updates. I will post there tonight and tomorrow as we track toward our destination.

Sorry for the length and meandering of this post, but I’m too tired to edit, the boat motion is nausea-inducing, and an AIS alarm is about to sound for a beacon in my vicinity! Wish us luck tonight and tomorrow, and thanks a million for all the love and support!

Tasman Crossing: Decisions, Decisions

This post was originally shared exclusively and directly with our subscribers during our passage across the Tasman.

We had brilliant sailing all afternoon today after a long night of motoring. I anticipate that we’ll motor tonight again. The decision to chase wind just hasn’t seemed to pay off, and I figure our best bet when there isn’t enough wind to sail is to motor the shortest course. We seem to be pushing a knot of current much of the time, which really impacts our headway in light winds (that are aft of the beam). Typically I avoid motoring, but I also know that it’s best to cross this hazardous stretch of ocean as quickly as possible.

We have to make a choice soon about whether we’ll head north and take the longer trip to Bundaberg, or if we will continue to head for Southport. It is an agonizing decision for me.

The main issue is a nasty low forecast off the Gold Coast area on Thursday. Half the models say it’s happening and it’s going to be baaaad for 14+ hours — the sort of conditions in which I would typically heave-to and drift. The other two models, which have been more accurate lately, say it’s not going to be very bad at all. Do we plan for the worst? Or trust the models that have been more accurate this past week?

Either way, on the back side of the low, a southerly is arriving on Friday/Saturday/Sunday. Almost all forecast models show this front will be significant and uncomfortable. So if we want to lessen the effects of Thursday’s low by arcing north, but still want to enter Southport, we’d then be fighting upwind in bad seas to get there (possibly with wind against East Australian Current conditions). So if I make the decision to avoid Thursday’s low by going north, we have to sail to Bundaberg.

If we make a turn now and head for Bundaberg, we will be in windless zones for much longer, spend two days more at sea, and risk hitting some weather blowing down from the tropics that some forecast models are predicting. Also, some models show that there’s no way we can go north far enough to be out of the range of Thursday’s low, regardless.

It doesn’t feel like there’s any one right choice, just a number of calculated gambles.

I don’t know what to do. Yesterday evening I felt quite down and discouraged by it.

Last night I had a better night of sleep, and woke feeling quite a bit more positive and mentally acute. We can’t control the weather, and we can’t predict the future, even with the forecasting tools available. I just have to make the best choices I can when it’s time and hope everything works out.

This morning I did boat chores — checking the deck and inspecting the rigging for any odd bits of hardware or slipping pins. I refueled and calculated what our average fuel consumption rate has been so far on this trip, as well as how many hours maximum we have remaining. I’m impressed by how efficient the engine has been; we have enough fuel to motor for 100 hours more if need be. (Thanks to the kind donation of a number of extra jerry cans!)

From midday on I focused on keeping the boat moving as fast as possible for the seven hours or so we were under sail. There were a few squalls that rolled through, each with its accompanying wild wind shifts, heavy rain, and glorious double rainbows. The clouds out here are just beyond compare… they are every shade, shape, and towering fluff that you see in cartoons, or impressionist paintings. I had forgotten how amazing they are, and that you never see anything like them except in the middle of the ocean.

Last night, I saw my first ever moonbow. I remember that when I first heard about them, I couldn’t even imagine one. In the wee hours last night, I went outside after a light rain squall and saw the moon off of our port side. When I shifted my gaze to starboard and saw a glowing white arc in the darkness, I instantly gasped, “Moonbow!!!” It was stunning, otherworldly, like the dark night sky was wearing the halo of an angel. You just know it when you see one. (And I do hope you see one.)

Zia is eating and drinking like usual. She brought me a toy for afternoon play time today for the first time since we’ve set sail; that’s a positive sign that she’s found her sea legs. She is weeing regularly but not doing any solid business yet, poor baby. She’s never been a gassy dog, but now she is, making her a less appealing bunkmate than usual. Hopefully she finally finds some relief in the next 12 hours. As my vet friend told me when I fretted about this on our first passage, “What goes in must come out.”

You may soon see our course change direction sharply, and you’ll know I’ve made a decision. Please wish us luck and ask for only good wind and mild weather to come our way.

Lots more to say but I really must start my night sleep cycle now. Thanks for all the loving and supportive messages; they really mean so much to me! xox

Much love,
E & Z & W

P.S. I’d love to write more, but the boat in light winds takes a lot more of my time than on a steady-wind passage, and I only just feel I’m coming back into a functioning brain. Hopefully, I’ll wake up with full mental acuity tomorrow and steadier wind conditions. Thanks again for all your support, we really couldn’t have made it here without you! <3

Tasman Crossing: Decent wind and looking forward to a good night of sleep 😴

This post was originally shared exclusively and directly with our subscribers during our passage across the Tasman.

All is well with us, and getting better with each passing hour. Just in the past two hours, the wind has become much more steady — exactly what we needed before another long night at sea.

The wind angle has changed slightly and I can no longer hold quite as much north in our course to angle up to Norfolk Island before turning west toward mainland Australia. The main advantage of that course was that there was supposed to be more wind along that latitude, but another advantage is that it would give us more sea room away from any weather coming up from the southern ocean.

Both advantages are largely moot now. The forecast has changed and there won’t be more wind at that latitude, and there doesn’t appear to be anything bad coming from the south in the next seven days. So, for now, my main priority is to keep the boat moving at a speed greater than 4 kt/hr. With the slow wind speeds we are experiencing (7-11 knots), and the angle of sail (nearly dead downwind at 165-170 AWA), this is actually pretty challenging. By heading up slightly, we’ll hold a slightly faster, stable, and more comfortable downwind angle of 150-160 AWA, with a slightly more WNW heading.

If I was less tired, we could go faster; I’d swap our headsail for my 165 genoa or even put up our symmetrical spinnaker.

But, I was troubleshooting an issue with our AIS transceiver the past few days and couldn’t verify the fix until I saw another ship… checking to be certain it appeared on our chartplotter (multifunction display, or MFD). Since I wasn’t certain I could trust the MFD to show dangerous targets, I have been setting alarms to wake me every hour since we passed the northern capes. (Before that, I slept on a beanbag in the cockpit in full kit and woke every 20-30 minutes.) This morning around sunrise I saw a cargo ship on the display, verifying that the MFD is showing AIS targets properly. I cannot express my joy and relief! I’ll be able to sleep in longer increments tonight and should feel a lot better tomorrow.

A number of other interesting things have happened, but I don’t have the brainpower to write any further this evening. Since the sun is sinking below the horizon, it’s time for us to go to bed.

More soon!
-e & z & w xo

P.S. Zia is much perkier today but has yet to toilet. She is eating and drinking normally, so I’m sure it’s just a matter of time now and she’ll slip into her routine at sea. I have her favourite treat (dried Possyum sticks, kiwi as!) on standby in the cockpit for the moment she finally does her business.

Tasman Crossing: The Morning After Our First Night Sailing to Australia

This post was originally shared to our subscribers during our passage across the Tasman.

An uneventful but soulful first night at sea. I dozed off and on all night in the cockpit while listening to the soothing sound of water bubbling past the hull. The crescent moon played hide and seek behind the clouds, while the stars winked and blinked dimly like light through the weave of a blanket thrown over the world. It felt cold despite layers and layers of clothing. I even wrapped a knit scarf around my neck and head under the hood of my jacket. Hopefully today we will see the sun.

The wind is like a fickle child: it has mostly been tapering off since midnight, but then suddenly springs to life again to fill our sails and swing our heading by 20 or 30 degrees. The forecast suggests our wind will die soon this morning and we’ll begin a 24+ hour stretch of motoring. I’ll be sad to lose the soothing sounds of the ocean speaking its language to us… but with such fickle wind all night, I kept the electric autopilot driving instead of the windvane, so now the batteries could use the engine recharge. (Especially if the sun isn’t going to come out!)

Zia has been snoozing peacefully in a nest of blankets down below. She seems unfazed so far by our return to sea.

I am very tired and not able to focus on anything but the sailing yet. I haven’t gotten sick at all — a first for me, when returning to sea, and a very welcome change.

Thank you for all the loving messages and support. I don’t have access to cellular data anymore but will stay in touch this way and vía other satellite communication mediums. More soon. Please wish us wind and sunshine.

Returning to the Salt Life

The wind is howling outside, but this 22-knot breeze is nothing compared to the weather we’ve endured for the past 48 hours. Anchored securely in the sand of Coralee Bay on Great Mercury Island, Windfola has been swinging from northwest to southwest and back again in sustained winds of 26-32 knots. (And those are the conditions we arrived in, so you can imagine what the sailing and anchoring was like.) Last night, gusts of 35 knots hit us beam on during ill-timed swings. But we are safe, and thankful for our 15 kilogram Rocna anchor and the catenary created by 39 meters of 8mm chain in just 6 meters of water.

Numbers, numbers, numbers.

As I’ve studied and planned for this journey, my head sometimes seems like a jumble of facts and figures. What are the forecast wind speeds, swell heights, and periods? How many nautical miles in each direction to a safe harbor? How much water and fuel do we have left? How many seconds between flashes of the signal light on that point of land? Depths, weather, fuel, water, charts — my mind is full of these numbers because I treat every sail as seriously as a trans-oceanic passage and prepare accordingly.

My high-tech bunk-drying system.

My high-tech bunk-drying system.

But this sail is just the prologue to a much greater journey ahead of us, and it is probably my study of the 2,800 nm course I’ve planned that has filled my head with so many details. (More on that soon.)

For now, we are dodging gales along a coast we’ve traveled twice before, destined for a place we’ve not yet been: Auckland. Windfola’s new rig and improvements are holding up well and it’s been nice to let her fly faster than ever. My feet (and Zia’s paws) haven’t touched the earth in four days, and I have eaten the same legume-based dish out of my pressure cooker for every major meal since we departed five days ago. The ice in the cooler has all melted away, there’s condensation under the mattress in my bunk, and there’s only occasionally a cell phone signal. With no heat aboard, Zia and I are snuggling up to a hot water bottle twice a day just to stay warm. And, I couldn’t be happier about it all!

Windfola woke me up last night in the rowdy weather, thrumming a beat with an errant halyard that I’d forgotten to tie off. I ventured above deck in the chilling midnight air to quiet the line. My body felt alive and strong in the cold, caring for my sailboat under the stars.

That’s the same feeling I had at the helm yesterday as we approached the island. I eased the main in a 32-knot gust, and when I peeked over the dodger to look at the water ahead of us, a wave seemed to leap right out of the sea and collapse on top of me. Freezing cold or soaking wet, nature reminds me that I am small… but I hang on to the helm and that makes me feel powerful.

We’ve returned to the salt life, and I’m in love.

xo & fair winds,
elana, zia, and s/v windfola ⛵️💕29 September, 2020; Coralee Bay, Great Mercury Island, New Zealand

leaving the Society Islands

We lingered in French Polynesia to see some islands that we’d heard were can’t-miss, and because we did, we got to meet someone who was a huge source of inspiration to me even before I bought Windfola! I am so honored that I got to spend time with Liz Clark (www.swellvoyage.com), and she was not only so encouraging and inspiring, but she gave me so much support via everything a sailor lady needs—a hot shower, delicious plant-based meals, jugs of water, loads of fresh fruit, clean laundry in a real washing machine, and lots and lots of time on super fast wifi. WOW. I can’t even begin to put my gratitude into words… and I am excited to pay it all forward someday to another sailor woman.

Cyclone season starts in just a few days, and it’s imperative that we move west quickly now. The trade winds are finally filling in again, so we plan to depart French Polynesia tomorrow, and then sail fast toward Palmerston in the Cook Islands, Niue (if weather permits), and then on to Minerva Reef to wait for a weather window to Opua, New Zealand. We aren’t permitted to make landfall in NZ before the 23rd of November due to complex biosecurity requirements for importing Zia, but I want to get as close as possible so we can patiently wait out a safe moment to make that last jump.

I’m still feeling nervous about the legs ahead. We have 2100 nautical miles to cover in 28 days. It’s totally doable, but we need the weather to be cooperative. So please put out good vibes to Mother Earth to give us perfect weather conditions.

After we leave French Polynesia, I won’t be able to update my website or social media, but I will use my satellite connection to send regular photos and stories to our subscribers. If you want to hear from us while we’re out there on the ocean and in remote places, please consider becoming a supporter for our circumnavigation. We can only complete this dream if you journey along with us!

xo & fair winds,
elana, zia, and s/v windfola ⛵️💕27 October, 2019; Society Islands, French Polynesia

Day 22: The Rum Fairy Remembers her Lessons

[This was originally published to our subscribers during our passage from San Diego to the Marquesas.]

Defying all expectations, today’s conditions were completely mellow. After a windy and rolling night, the winds and seas calmed around mid-morning and have been moving us along in gentle, perfect conditions ever since. The sky was a clear, gorgeous blue. This left me wondering, what’s the weather doing ahead of us and when is it arriving?

I tend to sail conservatively since I’m alone and relatively inexperienced. I try to make the most responsible and informed decisions that I can with the hope that this will keep us safe(r). I sometimes wonder if my restrained and cautious choices seem silly to more experienced sailors. But, as I’m already taking enough risk doing this solo, why encounter that which might be prevented?

Then the unexpected arrives, and I remember what the ocean teaches me every time I’m out here. No matter what’s forecast, you have to sail the conditions you are in.

She teaches me this when unexpected winds crop up and linger. I think, “This isn’t in the forecast; it will probably pass before I can put a reef in.” But it doesn’t. She teaches me this when the winds lighten and I’m hesitant to shake out a reef, knowing conditions are forecast to worsen soon. But they don’t. She is reminding me that we are in this moment, right now. We must adjust sail for both the expected and the unexpected. If we worry too much about what’s coming, we will miss out on enjoying the clear blue sky overhead and the gentle rolling swell below.

Once I remembered this, I relaxed and shook out a reef. Zia and I savored the day, wandering the foredeck together, watching the birds, and hunting for flying fish in crevices of the cockpit lazarettes. Since e-mail was still down, I had time to read a book for pleasure. I chopped and pickled onions in lemon juice and white wine vinegar and prepared a giant salad for dinner. It was delicious. Today was unexpected and perfect.

 

with love and serenity,

elana, zia, and SV Windfola 💕

 

P.S. You can reply to this email to reach me again! 😀 I would love to know what you want to hear more about during our final days at sea.

Day 14: Routing and Forecasting

[This was originally published to our subscribers during our passage from San Diego to the Marquesas.]

A few of you have asked how I’ve chosen our route to French Polynesia, and the truth is, it’s mostly been chosen for us by the same winds that chose the routes of ships four hundred years ago. If you look at our PredictWind tracker, you can see the general wind trends of the Pacific. Winds blow down the west coast from the northwest, until you hit the northern hemisphere tradewinds, which blow from the northeast toward the west. Just north of the equator, there’s a band of light and variable winds with frequent thunderstorms, which is often called the “doldrums” in classic sailing literature, but is properly known as the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ). That’s what we’re approaching right now!

Across the equator to the south, everything is a mirror image of the trends in the north Pacific. The south Pacific tradewinds blow from the south-east toward the west. Sailors often call sailing this route across the south Pacific the “Milk Run” or “Coconut Milk Run,” and give directions for it with the ever-quotable phrase “sail south until the butter melts, then turn west.”

While the prevailing winds have determined our general course, I make day-to-day decisions about our route. I spend no less than three hours every morning downloading and studying the forecasts, determining our course and speed averages, and plotting an estimated course ahead. I’m sure more experienced sailors can do this much faster than me, but I also enjoy taking my time and comparing all of the different forecast models so that I can feel confident I’ve checked everything thoroughly (also, download speeds are extremely slow).

Some sailors will pay for a weather router to send them routing advice during the passage. I’m lucky to have an incredibly knowledgeable friend who did this for me on my journey to Hawaii, so I had the chance to learn first hand from someone who could teach me in real time (and we had to track a developing hurricane during that passage). His kind tutelage laid a foundation which I’ve built upon by reading books and studying forecasts on my own ever since. I’ve discovered it’s one of those skills you have to practice consistently over time to build, because you need to see many, many examples of forecasts and observe what actually happens so you can learn nuances and discrepancies. Paying a routing service is great, but for me, I know I want to have the data for myself and know how to interpret it.

We left San Diego only a few days before the official start of hurricane season, so we have been sailing nonstop to get out of the hurricane zone as quickly as possible. (Hence no stops in Mexico.) I want to cross the ever-shifting ITCZ thunderstorm zone at its narrowest point because lightning is extremely dangerous for a sailboat. I didn’t want to go too far west too soon, since the tradewinds could easily carry me west later if the ITCZ was narrower over there. In addition to hurricane and ITCZ considerations, I wanted to sail as close as possible to a direct course because this is a long passage and I have a limited water supply. I chose the Marquesas islands as our first landfall because they are the furthest east and north, and it will all be downwind sailing from there across the south Pacific.

Every morning, I begin the downloads while I make coffee. (Downloads regularly fail, or the connection drops, so this process is a lesson in patience.) I start by downloading a 72-hour wind, pressure, cloud, and swell forecast (GRIB file) for a 10x10 degree square around me in the highest resolution possible, in four different weather models. I use this to make minor adjustments to my course: deciding if I should go a little more west or south for better conditions, and anticipating when winds may pick up or decline so I can prepare myself to manage sails at the right times (napping when they are steady, so I’ll be awake when they are supposed to build or drop).

After I finish with the GRIBs for our area, I visit forecast web pages, which each take five to ten minutes to load. I check the National Weather Service’s annotated Pacific image forecast, the National Hurricane Center’s High Seas text forecast, NHC’s Eastern North Pacific Tropical Weather Outlook, and then read the corresponding discussion. Sometimes I also download a 7-10 day, low-resolution wind & swell GRIB forecast for the eastern Pacific to observe general trends, paying special attention to the behavior of the ITCZ and any developing lows or highs. I use all of this data to determine what’s likely coming, what is questionable or conflicting in models, and whether I need to adjust anything about my overall approach to this passage. (Between passages, I still do a daily subset of this, so that I can keep improving at forecast interpretation.)

I knew nothing about meteorology before I left for Hawaii less than two years ago, so if I can do this, anyone can. Often I tell nervous but aspiring cruisers that if you are willing to study a little and interested in learning, you’ll pick it up easily along the way and other sailors will always be happy to help. It’s the same approach I try to take to life: no matter what, just stay curious and go after what interests you; people will help you, and then you will help others.

wishing you fair weather, ☔ ☀️

elana, zia, & SV Windfola